Yakushiji Temple

Points of View
(1)Tinted statues glowing black from the passage of time
(2)The old and new towers
(3)The original tower surrounded by rebuilt corridors

This temple is located a little outside the center of Nara City, and is quite famous for its towers and statues. Its towers are often said to be like frozen music, having a light and unique rhythm. The temple had two original towers, but only one of them stood the test of time. About twenty years ago, the lost tower was rebuilt by the most skillful maestro, and now both the old and new versions stand facing each other. Now, let’s go there, thinking about the old and new.

After paying the entrance fee at the counter, you enter the complex, and inside are buildings surrounded by corridors, similar to Horyuji Temple. Before going into these recently rebuilt corridors, you encounter another old building known as the Toin-do just outside the corridors.

This old building contains three statues. The main figure, placed in the center, glows a tasteful black, and two figures are housed on either side of it. The main figure has a very calm face, while the ones to the sides look angry. The main statue is one of the most beautiful images in Japan. Gazing at the gentle face and its appearance, I feel a sense of wellbeing, although I personally am not religious. These three images were originally covered in gold leaf, but this is now completely gone, revealing the copper underneath that has turned a glowing black due to oxidation. The condition of the statues today is far from the original, but the jet-black images are profound. The gold leaf was never replaced, partly because the solemnity of glowing black, rather than the luxury of glittering gold, matches the Japanese characteristic flavor of “as is”. The two angry figures were a kind of Buddhist imagery, but their design originates from that of ancient Indian deities. Many kinds of imagery were made as the influence of Buddhism spread.

Passing through the gate to the corridors, you see two towers, one old and the other new. The old one was made more than 1,000 years ago, and is thus more than 1,000 years older than the new one. Often compared to frozen music, these buildings have a light and unique rhythm unlike any other tower in Japan. Possessing a sense of stability and lightness, they simultaneously embody continental powerfulness and Japanese delicateness. This sense of rhythm is also found in Byodoin Temple, which is not as powerful but is certainly rhythmical and light, and was built about 400 years after this one. While Yakushiji displays a hint of Japanese features within its continental ones, in Byodoin Temple the Japanese characteristics replaced the continental features. As time went by, the influence of the continent began to disappear in favor of Japanese architectural tastes. This change in style reflects how tastes changed over time.

Now, let us compare the old tower with the new. Though the new one is original in appearance, it somehow seems to have a sense of being fake, while the old one seems real. Unconsciously, I tend to associate new with being fake and old with being real as far as Japanese temples are concerned. Temples in Japan are generally not repainted when the paint comes off, unlike those in other Asian countries, because it is considered natural and tasteful for things to grow old. This aspect of taste has much to do with the “as is” spirit of tea culture formed by Senno Rikyu.

Next, let’s go to the main hall, where there are three Buddhist images that also glow a perfect black. The two images to either side of the main one are somewhat erotic in appearance, and are similar to human beings. The main statue is the god of medicine, and the name of the temple is derived from the name of this god. These images were also made more than 1,200 years ago, and may have been the best ever created at that time. They are similar to human beings in proportion and look very natural, to the extent that I can look at them for a long time without tiring of them. The peak of Buddhist statues had been reached as long as 1,200 years ago.